We fell in love with Cinque Terre, Italy the first time we visited thirty years ago. We took a chance that others would feel the same way and introduced our first Cinque Terre and Liguria tour experience in 2025.
Our Adventures with Sarah guests raved about how much fun they had and how surprised they were to discover such a variety of experiences, landscapes, and delicious food and wine in one week.
While all five Cinque Terre villages have something special to offer, there is something extra appealing about Vernazza. My husband Cristiano Fornelli and I, your Cinque Terre tour guides, have lived in Vernazza together for 30 years after meeting by chance here while I was on vacation. Vernazza has a magical charm that makes it stand out from the other four villages, and in this guide we will explain more about why Vernazza is our favorite Cinque Terre village and how to make the most of your visit:
About Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre is a beautiful, yet fragile coastal landscape, stretching 15km along the Ligurian coastline, in northwestern Italy, between the small port city of La Spezia and the coastal town of Levanto.
Cinque Terre is well known for its five pastel villages (Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore), sparkling Mediterranean Sea, and for the stone walled terraced vineyards and olive groves that have been cultivated by generations of local families. These steep hillsides are criss-crossed with hiking trails that are still used by local farmers and enjoyed by tourists from all over the world.
An Introduction to Vernazza’s History
The first recorded mention of Vernazza as a fortified town dates to the year 1080 because, although Ligurians were living in the area since Roman times, they mainly settled in the upper hills because the coast was under constant attack by Saracen pirates.
When Vernazza pledged allegiance to the Republic of Genova in 1209, it provided a natural harbor port for Genova’s conquest of Liguria in its city-state rivalry with Pisa. The powerful Genovese navy also provided defense from pirates so villagers could move down from the hillsides and build the medieval villages on the sea as they exist today, with their fortified walls and Genovese lookout towers. The Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia dates from 1318, with expansions through the 16th and 17th centuries, including the addition of the octagonal bell tower we see today.
The Growth of the Cinque Terre
The Cinque Terre grew over the next 600 years thanks to agriculture and fishing. Monterosso is still known as one of the two best places in Italy for anchovies, the local delicacy (the other is Sciacca, Sicily). Cinque Terre’s white wine and handcrafted passito wine called Sciacchetrà became famous in the Medieval ages when it was shipped from Vernazza to Genova and Rome, to be served to Popes and royalty throughout Europe.
Wine is the soul of Cinque Terre and growing its Cinque Terre DOC white wine and Sciacchetrà continues to be an integral part of local culture that you can experience yourself, in wine tastings or at a restaurant paired with local specialties like pesto and anchovies.
Think of the labor involved from generations of Vernazzesi to create this agricultural way of life, building the stone wall terracing, stone by stone, to carve fertile land for gardens, vineyards, and olive and lemon groves, out of the hillside. Even today, most families own a cian, a small plot of arable land for cultivating vegetables, grapes, olives, and lemons, and use the hiking trails to reach their cian.
Over the centuries, the Cinque Terre villages were accessible by boat or by foot. In 1874, the completion of the train line connecting Genova to La Spezia ended the area’s isolation. All five villages have their own train station, and the train remains the primary mode of transport. In the twentieth century, people began to move away or work in the city of La Spezia instead of in their vineyards. In the 1960s, tourism arrived in Cinque Terre. Today, tourism is the driving economic force.
The Cinque Terre and Vernazza Today
In 1997, UNESCO recognized Cinque Terre as a World Heritage site: “a remarkable cultural landscape created by human endeavor over a millennium in a rugged and dramatic natural environment. It represents the harmonious interaction between people and nature to produce a landscape of exceptional scenic quality”.
In 1999, the Cinque Terre territory and towns became the Cinque Terre National Park and Marine Protected Area. The Cinque Terre Marine Protected Area is part of the Pelagos Sanctuary for Mediterranean Marine Mammals, a vast area from the French Riviera to Corsica to Sardinia to the Tuscan and Ligurian coasts to protect dolphins, whales, and other marine life. If you are out on a boat, keep your eyes open for dolphins frolicking in the waves.
Today, people visit Vernazza and the Cinque Terre from all over the world to admire the colorful villages, hike the trails that weave along the steep cliffs and enjoy the local wine and food. As one of the smaller villages, with a beautiful natural harbor, Vernazza offers a different, more intimate perspective of the Cinque Terre, which we are always excited to share with visitors.
How to Get to Vernazza
As with all of the villages on the Cinque Terre, the best way to reach Vernazza is by train. The Vernazza train station is located at the top of Via Roma, the main street in the village, from which you can easily walk to Vernazza’s small natural harbour, Piazza Marconi, the Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia, the Doria castle (a Genovese lookout tower) and your accommodation if you’re staying here.
The local train, called the Cinque Terre Express, connects all the villages from La Spezia to Levanto. If you are traveling to Vernazza from other parts of Italy, you will most likely connect in La Spezia, which is about 20 minutes from Vernazza by train. From Levanto, the journey is a little shorter, with the train taking approximately 10 minutes. The Cinque Terre Express trains run every 20 minutes throughout the day and once per hour in the evenings.
If you are staying in one of the other villages on the Cinque Terre, Vernazza makes for a lovely day trip. Again, using the local train it is simple to reach Vernazza, with services running from early in the morning through to the evenings.
What About Traveling by Road?
The train is the best way to explore the Cinque Terre for two reasons. First, the medieval villages are car-free. Next, the road to Vernazza is very narrow, steep, and twists along the clifftops so it is not advisable if you suffer from car sickness or fear of heights. If you are coming to Vernazza with a rental car, you can either park in La Spezia and catch the train or park at the Vernassoa Parking Lot, located about 1 mile uphill from Vernazza, and take the parking lot’s shuttle bus service to/from the village.
When booking your own car service, make sure it has the town of Vernazza pass to open and drive through the entrance gate to Vernazza and down to the pedestrian entrance of the village. If the car service does not, it will be required to drop you off at the gate located 1km/0.6 mile uphill from Vernazza… and it is a long walk down.
For travel in and around Cinque Terre, I recommend the train, the hop-on/hop-off ferries that run from March to November (except in rough seas), water taxis or boat tours, and your own feet to hike on the gorgeous trails. You can also take the minibuses that connect the village centers to the Sanctuary Churches, hamlets, and hiking trails located above the villages.
My Favorite Things to Do in Vernazza
Vernazza is one of the most beautiful coastal villages in the entire Mediterranean, filled with lovely corners to explore.
What to do in Vernazza
I encourage you to start in Piazza Marconi, Vernazza’s harbor main square and its open air “living room”. Everything happens here: old people gossip, kids play soccer or foosball, friends gather for an aperitivo drink and chat, older men play cards at their private club in the corner, and people enjoy meals at the restaurants around the piazza.
Next, visit the Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia, a waterfront Ligurian Gothic church built in 1318 whose stone interior comes alive when the waves’ reflections sparkle through the windows. It is one of the few Catholic Churches with the east facing entryway “behind” the altar. Santa Margherita is Vernazza’s patron saint, with the annual Feast Day on July 20. She is the patron saint of pregnant women and is often depicted with a dragon at her feet, symbolizing her victory over the devil. You will see a statue of Santa Margherita standing on a dragon on the wall to the left as you ascend the stairs into the church in Vernazza.
Wander on the small lanes, stairs and narrow alleyways called caruggi to see interesting statues, carvings, and doorways as you marvel at the verticality of the houses built on hillsides.
Walk up to the Doria Castle, a Genovese cylindrical stone tower, with a spectacular 360-degree view of Vernazza, the Mediterranean sea, Corniglia, and Monterosso. You can also see another remnant of the medieval fortifications that once extended much further around Vernazza at the Belforte tower (now a restaurant).
Vernazza Activities
Swim in Vernazza’s natural harbor, filled with typical Ligurian gozzi (boats). Lay on the small sandy beach or find a smooth rock to spread your towel and read a book under the sun.
Stroll around Vernazza’s breakwater admiring the sparkling sea and green hillsides. On the breakwater pier and below the Belforte, you will find many tables where you can find information about private and group boat tours and buy ferry tickets.
Hike (or take the minibus) up the hillside to the Sanctuary of Nostra Madonna di Reggio for stunning views of Vernazza and the sea below. The hike is on an easy, sloping, never-crowded, always-open, free hiking trail that connects the village to the Sanctuary.
Stargaze at night without the disturbance of ambient lighting and make a wish on a falling star.
Exploring the Cinque Terre and Beyond
Vernazza is an ideal base for exploring. With the regional train connections, the hiking trails and boat options, it is easy to explore the entire Cinque Terre coastline. Each village has its own special character and unique features, so they’re all worth visiting. There is a reason why they are considered some of the most beautiful villages anywhere in Italy.
If you’re planning on doing some day trips from Vernazza, you should consider purchasing a Cinque Terre train card. This gives you unlimited train travel for the duration of your ticket as well as access to all the hiking trails (you will need to make a timed entrance reservation for the “Via dell’Amore” between Manarola and Riomaggiore) and use of the minibuses within the national park. I suggest buying your Cinque Terre Train Card online (for 1, 2 or 3 days, with special prices for seniors and families).
Using the trains, you can also get to know the wider region of Liguria better too. La Spezia is a fun city to explore, and the town of Levanto in the other direction has a lovely beach and a relaxing atmosphere to soak up. You could easily catch a train to Genova for the day to visit this interesting city, with Europe’s largest aquarium, or go to Camogli or tiny Framura.
Hiking in Vernazza
Hiking is one of my favorite things to do in Vernazza and Cinque Terre.
If you have limited time or want to get to know the village better, you can take a long walk around Vernazza as a great alternative to a “full hike”. Make sure you go to the piazza and walk up and down the caruggi. Walk up the narrow, steep stairs leading from Piazza Marconi (found between Taverna del Capitano and Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia) and turn left to continue walking for 5 minutes to the trailhead leading to Monterosso for a great photo op of Vernazza and her harbor.
You can also walk up, up, and up via Carattino to the trailhead leading to Corniglia for a great photo of Vernazza’s entire town from above. I also recommend a walk up to the Vernazza Town Hall for a beautiful view over Vernazza and the Cheo Winery vineyards on the opposite hillside.
My favorite hike is up to the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Reggio (or take the minibus up and hike down). The free hiking path winds through terraced vineyards and olive groves, with breathtaking views, and at the top you’ll be rewarded with a peaceful park and church with ancient origins. Next to the church, you will see the oldest tree in Liguria, an 800+ year old monumental cypress.
Hiking Further Afield
For more strenuous hikes, Vernazza is connected to the SVA Coastal Trail (Sentiero Verde Azzuro or Blue Trail), which originally linked all five villages. The SVA is the ONLY trail that requires a Cinque Terre National Park Card (Trekking or Train).
You can hike from Vernazza to Monterosso (we suggest this direction) and from Vernazza to Corniglia (or vice versa). Both trails are very steep with lots of stone stairs. Once you are in Corniglia, you will need to take a train back to Vernazza OR to Manarola or Riomaggiore, because the coastal trail between Corniglia and Manarola is closed for the foreseeable future.
The most famous trail is the Via dell’Amore from Riomaggiore to Manarola. It is a paved path that is 900 meters long, flat and easy. In addition to the Card, it requires online reservations to enter at a specific date and time.
The hiking trails that criss-cross the Cinque Terre vary significantly in difficulty levels and terrain, so it is important that you do your research before setting off. Suitable footwear and clothing is essential, and you should also check the National Park website for details of any adverse weather or trail closures.
The Best Places to Eat and Drink in Vernazza
Vernazza is full of great places to enjoy the local wines and cuisine. Whether you’re looking for somewhere to enjoy a leisurely aperitivo, grab a freshly-baked foccacia or a multi-course dinner, you won’t be disappointed – here are my top recommendations:
Blue Marlin
Via Roma, 61
My FAVORITE all-day, local place for breakfast (eggs!), lunch or drinks. Every day they have one or two choices of freshly cooked pasta plus bruschetta, focaccia sandwiches, a mixed green salad with veggies and tuna, and freshly baked cakes.
Focacceria da Paolo
Via Roma, 35
This focaccia shop makes focaccia all day long. We love the traditional plain focaccia, but you can find focaccia with all sorts of toppings like pesto or rosemary or sausage.
Trattoria Gianni Franzi
Piazza Marconi, 1
My favorite place for lunch or dinner in the piazza under multi-colored umbrellas with traditional, well-prepared food. Try antipasti misti, a feast of flavors and textures, with anchovies prepared in different ways. Order the BEST homemade pesto on trofie (short twists), trenette (flat spaghetti), handmade gnocchi (potato dumplings), or handmade ravioli. Excellent fish and meat main courses.
La Torre
200 steps up Via Carattino on the cliff before the trail head to Corniglia
The walk up all the stairs is worth it for a spectacular panoramic view over Vernazza at this open-air restaurant. Delicious spaghetti ai frutti di mare, muscoli marinara and anchovies.
Trattoria Da Piva
Via Carattino 6
This small, local trattoria is run by Vernazzan Raphael. Delicious antipasti misti and order the famous “Riso Piva” (like a risotto with mixed seafood).
Gelateria Porticciolo
Via Visconti 12 (on the walkway on Vernazza’s harbor)
Delicious artisanal gelato, with flavors like cinnamon, hazelnut, and chocolate, as well as delicious fresh fruit flavors.
Get to Know Vernazza With Us
I can’t wait to share our love for Vernazza and the wider region with you, so make sure to check out the details of our upcoming adventure here.
Our small group tour gives you the chance to experience the hidden gems of the Cinque Terre, far from the crowds, as well as the Golfo dei Poeti, Portovenere, Carrara’s marble quarries, Portofino, and the city of Genova, among other places. Like all Adventures with Sarah tours, our guests are introduced to places, experiences, and local people in a way that you can never plan on your own.
If you have any questions about what to expect from this tour or would like to talk to us about a custom Cinque Terre experience don’t hesitate to get in touch.
All images and particular recommendations in this blog are courtesy of Ruth Manfredi who, with her husband Cristiano Fornelli, designed our Liguria and Cinque Terre tour and will be your local guides. Learn more about them and their story here.
