More than anywhere else in Italy, the ancient Greeks had a profound impact on Sicily. Multiple Greek colonies were founded around the island, including the major cities of Messina and Syracuse, and their legacy can still be seen today. One of the best ways to understand this legacy is to visit the ancient Greek temples in Sicily. They are an essential stop on any Sicily itinerary so keep reading to discover what makes them so special.
An Introduction to the Ancient Greeks in Sicily and Italy
So why were people from ancient Greece in Sicily?
In the 8th century BC the Greeks were great traders. They had already established a number of trade routes but one of the most important took them through the Strait of Messina. This narrow stretch of water is where Sicily is at its closest point to the Italian mainland, but also was the quickest route for ships coming from Greece to connect to ports in the Mediterranean.
Rather than having to sail all the way around Sicily to go north, control of this body of water meant the Greek traders could take a quicker, safer and more direct route. Controlling this route was therefore crucial for the Greeks, and so they started establishing colonies along the eastern coast of Sicily.
As well as what would become the modern city of Messina, the Greeks established the settlements of Naxos (near Taormina), Katane (modern Catania) and Syracuse among others. On the west coast the cities of Gela, Akragas (Agrigento) and Selinunte were also founded, along with Himera in the north.
The Greeks also headed further north, with Sicily and parts of southern Italy becoming known as Magna Graecia. Naples was originally Greek, as was Taranto in Puglia and the city of Reggio Calabria, which faces Sicily.
The Greeks in Sicily and Italy
These colonies were intended as permanent homes for Greeks looking for new land, with their own leaders and the ability to make their own decisions. However the new Greek city states were still closely connected to their original land, replicating architectural styles, societies and political systems.
This included the expansion and creation of even more colonies. Across Sicily and southern Italy even more Greek colonies were founded, including Paestum in Campania, making it hard to escape the Greek influence.
In the 6th century tensions between rival Greeks and the local peoples started to escalate, as well as the Carthaginians who controlled other parts of Sicily. There was constant conflict, with many cities damaged or abandoned as a result, for hundreds of years.
In the 3rd century Syracuse had emerged as the largest and most powerful Greek city state but not even they could stop the new power in the region; the ancient Romans.
The End of the Greek City States in Sicily and Italy
The Roman Republic was still an emerging power in the 4th and 3rd centuries BC, but their success in the First Punic War against the Carthaginians changed everything. The Greek states had largely supported the Carthaginians against the Romans, but after the Roman victory, Sicily was essentially a Roman province.
The power of the Greek city states was gone, their leaders killed or absorbed into the governance of the new extension of Rome. While some larger cities survived, evolving with time, others were abandoned or destroyed. Greek culture also survived, but the Romans would be the masters of Sicily and Italy for centuries.
How Did Greek Temples Survive?
Today there are lots of examples of the ancient Greek influence in Sicily, some obvious like the huge temples at Agrigento and others more subtle. The cathedral of Ortigia in Syracuse for example, which is a Christian church, was built literally in the temple dedicated to Athena – in the 600’s the bishop simply bricked in the space between the temple columns.
While in some places the Greek temples became part of later structures, in other places they were left to decay. Interest in these ancient ruins was very minimal, until the 17th and 18th centuries when it became popular with aristocratic, wealthy Europeans to investigate.
Archaeological sites started popping up all over the place and Italy in particular was filled with people wanting to see the ruins for themselves. This interest led to many sites being excavated, which would then inspire later, more scientific examinations and numerous discoveries. Lucky for us, this early interest in archeology means we can visit and appreciate the ruins for ourselves.
The Valley of the Temples
When people think of ancient Greek temples in Sicily, they’re probably thinking of the Valley of the Temples of Agrigento. The UNESCO World Heritage site has some of the best preserved Greek temples anywhere in Italy and has served as inspiration for countless travelers – us included.
The archeological park covers the ruins of what was once the ancient Greek city of Akragas. One of the original Greek colonies in Sicily from the 6th century BC, Akragas expanded into the interior of Sicily and up to the north coast of the island, controlling the land trade routes. The city was one of the first in Sicily to mint coins and was famous for its wealth.
Early on in the city’s history huge temples were built in what would become known as the Valley of the Temples. The first, the temple dedicated to Hercules was built close to one of the city gates and then later temples were added all around the ancient city.
Despite the grandeur and wealth of Akragas, it was another casualty of the wars between the Romans and Carthaginians. Already severely reduced in power and influence thanks to earlier military action, by the 3rd century BC the city had been taken by the Romans and renamed Agrigentum (the basis of its modern name).
The Romans left the temples in place but over the centuries they became less important. Christianity became the state religion and the temples dedicated to pagan Greek and Roman gods were repurposed as burial sites. Later, a cathedral was built using one of the temple’s structure but the whole area was slowly abandoned in favor of a new city further inland.
The Temple of Concordia
The archaeological park is vast, with ruins from both the ancient city of Akragas and parts added in the Roman period. However most visitors want to see the temples, with eleven Doric temples in total here.
One of the best preserved Greek temples anywhere is the Temple of Concordia. This is in part because it was converted into a church in the 6th century AD, which preserved much of the original structure. The elements that were added for the church were removed in the 1700’s, meaning we now have a clear idea of what it would have looked like in ancient times.
Other Temples
Also well preserved is the Doric temple of Juno, although now historians do not believe it was dedicated to her but rather Athena. You cannot miss the Temple of Hercules, which does not have much of the structure left standing but was one of the oldest buildings in the city. The columns look a little different to the other later temples, as they were made before the Greeks had perfected the Doric style.
Even more ruined is the Temple of Olympian Zeus, or the Olympeion. A later temple, construction started in the 4th century BC to give thanks to Zeus for helping the city win a great battle. It was one of the largest temples ever built in the Greek world, but was never completely finished. What was still standing by the 1400’s was severely damaged by an earthquake but although the temple is in bad shape, the sheer size of the base and the column pieces are incredible to see.
There is a lot more to explore in the Valley of the Temples, which is why we dedicate a full day to the archaeological site on our Sicily Highlights tour.
Selinunte Archeological Park
One of the earliest Greek colonies in Sicily, Selinunte became one of the largest and most powerful. Located on the west coast, Selinunte was slightly removed from the Greek cities on the east coast, giving them more opportunity to expand.
This expansion led to the creation of a huge city. The city sprawled over hundreds of acres of land between two rivers that fed into the sea, with two ports, an Acropolis, an Agora, multiple sanctuaries and temples as well as homes and businesses for the people who lived there.
What Happened to Selinunte?
Unlike other ancient Greek colonies, Selinunte did not survive to be taken over by the Romans or other later foreign powers. Selinunte had been defeated by the Carthaginians in the 5th century BC, with thousands of their people killed and many more fleeing. The city was largely left standing, although the city walls were destroyed.
In the 3rd century Selinunte was firmly under Carthaginian control. When the First Punic War started between the Carthaginians and the Romans, Selinunte and its people were part of the military campaign. During this war the Carthaginians decided to consolidate their forces and population at the nearby city of Lilybaeum, emptying the city of Selinunte.
The Romans defeated Carthage, so Selinunte was never repopulated. The city was left to decay and sink into the land until the 16th century when it was rediscovered. Excavations have been ongoing to some degree ever since, and now today the archaeological park is a huge site, with much of the ancient city having been uncovered.
This is an essential stop on our Sicily Pleasures tour each year, on which we also stop at Segesta (more on this below) for even more ancient ruins.
What to See
The whole archaeological park is fantastic. Sitting on the coast, the ancient temples with their pale yellow stone contrast beautifully with the blue sea beyond. While the buildings are more ruined that those at Agrigento, we find that it is easier to understand the city as a whole here.
You could simply walk around the site to get a feel for Selinunte and how large it was, but there are some specific things you should not miss.
The Acropolis was the heart of the city, with some of the most important temples and religious buildings. As well as the ancient Greek roads, up here you will see the remains of multiple Doric temples and defensive towers.
The Temples at Selinunte
On the Eastern Hill are three huge temples, with this area seeming to have been a sanctuary in ancient times. Two of them are fairly well preserved, with most of their columns upright and some of the peristyle on top as well.
The third at first glance seems to be simply a pile of ruins, but this is in fact the remnants of one of the largest temples anywhere in the Greek world. Only one column is still standing and the condition of some of those lying down suggests that the temple was not finished when the city was abandoned.
There are more temples and ruins on the Gàggera Hill, although these are not in as good a condition, and the Necropolis is where most of Selinunte’s residents were laid to rest. The site of Selinunte is huge but the most impressive ruins are located pretty close together and stand out from the surroundings, so you can’t miss them.
Archeological Park of Segesta
The archaeological park of Segesta has what at first glance seems like another classic Greek temple. However, the temple at Segesta has an interesting origin story because Segesta was not in fact Greek at all. The ancient city was built by a people called the Elymians. Legend has it the Elymians were refugees from Troy who ended up in the northeast corner of Sicily, but it would seem that they were actually a local Italic people.
Segesta was founded before the Greek city states and was in constant disagreement with the neighboring Greek city of Selinunte. Located in a strategic position on Mount Barbaro, much of the city has not been fully excavated, but there are two main sights within the archaeological park that make it a must-visit.
The Greek Theater of Segesta
On top of the highest peak of the mountain is a Greek theater. Built at the end of the 3rd century BC, the theater is one of the most impressive locations we’ve ever seen. Rolling hills surround you and the deep blue sea is in the distance, creating a vast natural backdrop.
While the theater looks classically Greek, it is slightly different in that it was purposely built up and is supported by retaining walls. Greek theaters were usually built into the side of a cliff or somewhere where the rock formed the foundation.
The theater at Segesta can seat around 5000 people, and the acoustics are so good that concerts are held here even today.
The Temple at Segesta
The other main site at Segesta is a well-preserved Greek temple. Located lower down on the mountain, and slightly away from the rest of the ruins of the ancient city, this was built towards the end of the 5th century BC.
Like the theater, while the temple appears Greek at first sight, there are some interesting differences. The interior layout does not match what we expect from a classic Greek temple and it never had a roof.
You can get right up close to the ruins to see the architectural details, and it is one of the best examples of a Doric temple that we have. Some historians believe that the temple was never finished but simply abandoned, but whatever the reason for the preservation of the structure, we’re happy we get to see it today.
Segesta is particularly fascinating because even though the people were not Greek and were fighting a Greek colony almost continuously, they still used their ideas and architectural knowledge.
Visiting the Ancient Greek Temples in Sicily
These are our favorite ancient Greek temples in Sicily, but there are many more places to see their legacy on this island, as well as the influence of later cultures and people. We love Sicily so much we have two separate itineraries to ensure we can show off as much of this wonderful island as possible – find out more about our Sicily Highlights and Sicily Pleasures tours to see which one (or both) you’d be interested in joining.
